As a child in Uganda, John Bosco remembers hearing an old wives' tale that if a man fell asleep in the sun and it crossed over him, he would wake up as a woman. "I used to try that as a kid," says John now, some 30 years later. He sits at a table in a busy cafe across the road from the railway station in Southampton, his fingers playing with the handle of a glass of hot chocolate. "I'd spend all day long lying under the sun. From childhood I wanted to be a girl. I wanted dolls. At school, I played netball. I wanted to dress up like a girl... I rubbed herbs into my chest that were meant to make your breasts grow. I tried everything, but it didn't work.."