Brazzaville

10 February, 2019

"This modernist 1949 building was the crowning achievement of French architect Roger Erell, who was known for fusing Western architectural ideas with local building techniques. It's easily one of the city's most striking buildings, with its dazzling green roof and carved copper doors – try to come by around 5pm for mass, when the nave is a sea of beautifully dressed locals.". says Lonely Planet of this marvellous structure. 

It is described by one reviewer on Tripadvisor as: 

"This really is one of the highlights to visit in Brazzaville. The bright green roof is beautiful, and the copper panels on the doors are amazing! Easy to find in the walk-able downtown area."

Globe Holidays describes it as:

"A fabulous example of religious architecture which represents one of the most important religious monuments of Central Africa by presenting a combination of traditional techniques and innovations in Europe, a union that has made the basilica a formidable work. Covered with green tiles, the basilica was built in 1946... and today it is a destination not to be missed for those who go on holiday in Brazzaville."

I had heard of this basilica before I came to Brazzaville. So last evening after days of inclement weather that had impacted much of my outdoor activity, in the company of my friend Achille, we set out together on a long walk through the streets of Poto-Poto in downtown Brazzaville, with the intention eventually to wind up at the basilica. 

The sun had set by the time we reached our destination, or to be precise, the park immediately adjacent to the basilica. Where on several park benches were sat couples snuggled up together, shielded from prying eyes by the shadows and gloom of the dusk. As we picked our way gingerly across to the far side of the park, to the fence separating this park from the premises of the basilica itself, there was a sense of melancholy that I had arrived at this beautiful place not in bright sunlit daytime so as to take photos and to appreciate the basilica's beauty that much better. Nevertheless, we did get up as close to the building as we could, and took in as much of its magnificence as the limited visibility allowed. 

I take comfort in the knowledge that if asked the question "Did you see the Basilique Sainte-Anne?" The only answer, of course, is "Yes, I did". And it's true too. These photos I have posted here are not mine, unfortunately, but this is the basilica I saw last evening, complete with a view of a part of the park that I mentioned.

Moving on, that long walk itself left me with much to comment about. Marché Poto-Poto (Poto-Poto Market) is a busy sprawling market along the Rue de la Paix in the centre of town.

And it is full of West Africans. 

I noticed the pronounced difference about the place as soon as I reached it. It was very unlike the rest of Brazzaville that I had seen before then. It felt more like being in a bustling street market in Bamako, Mali, or somewhere in Burkina Faso, or northern Ghana.

This link provides some context. It is in French but is easily translated.  https://www.jeuneafrique.com/mag/255219/societe/congo-brazzaville-les-ouest-africains-rois-du-commerce/ 

It is the story of how during the colonial era the French colonial authorities had brought skilled workers over from West Africa to fill shortfalls in manpower in the Congo, and how many of those workers had stayed, and were followed subsequently by traders and other merchants.

Achille pointed out that most of the merchants here are of West African origin, but only after I had already noticed the sharp difference in tempo and ambience from the otherwise sedate Brazzaville that I had become accustomed to by then. It was noisier, rowdier, and it was surprising to me overhearing greetings shouted out in the Hausa language in a place in Central Africa so far away from Northern Nigeria. I had until then heard only French and the local Lingala language spoken at my lodgings, and everywhere else I had been. 

This was a very interesting mix of people and things, a Lebanese-owned ice cream parlour, boulangeries (bakeries) with French baguettes in the windows; patisseries; meats roasting over fires on the street; loud modern Congolese music blaring from loudspeakers in music stores leaving no one in doubt that this was in fact Congo, a very French Congo. 

There are two branches of Nigeria's United Bank for Africa (UBA) on this one street, (UBA is called ooo-bah here). And for good measure, for the very first time since I arrived in this city, I saw lots and lots of people together, with busy vehicular traffic, even busier pavements on both sides of the street and crowds of people shuffling past each other. This is only worth mentioning here because of how different from the rest of Brazzaville this area is, and how surprised I was by it. It was impossible not to notice how different it was. 

I've been having some trouble with the WiFi internet at my place, so I might be offline for a while. But even if I am, it won't be for long. And I'll soon be back home anyway, although having to leave this beautiful place is not something that I am particularly looking forward to. #TravelAfrica #ILoveAfrica #notjustwildlife #Africancities

My error-ridden schoolboy French is being stretched to the limit.