Cairo, Egypt

March, 2024

Downtown Cairo. This area modelled on 1860s Paris is filled with elegant but crumbling buildings constructed over the next seven decades. Many were nationalised in the 1950s and 1960s then fell into disrepair. It is a fading beauty, but efforts have recently been made to restore the elegance of some of these buildings. My first reaction to this city centre area was surprise, I had not expected the area to look so much like Europe. That said, there was still something uniquely Egyptian about the place, in the little details, in the touches and the finishings; with the Arabic signage and the pharaonic symbols and motifs everywhere. Including the hieroglyphs inside the elevators at my hotel that reminded me constantly that I was actually nowhere else but in Egypt. It was fascinating.

There are few trees in Cairo, but there are lots of palm trees of various types, used ornamentally to line major boulevards and avenues.

Although downtown Cairo was planned by European architects, throughout the city is a mix of different architectural styles. I was taken aback by how European the downtown area looked. Cairo is nicknamed The Paris along the Nile.

Influenced by French architecture, Downtown Cairo was first built by Khedive Ismail in 1863, who was determined to turn Cairo, a largely medieval city, into the “Paris of the East”.

I had seen it with my eyes before reading up on it and then understood why the downtown is the way it is. The beauty of this downtown area is fading now, but it must have been splendid at some time in the past. It still is beautiful though, but there is something uniquely Egyptian about it. And not just the downtown.

Despite the conflicting styles and influences, those dated European style buildings, as with the modern buildings, have subtle Egyptian touches and finishes such as hieroglyphs, pharaonic symbols and motifs, ancient Egyptian imagery and other ornate detailing, everywhere you look, this including the hieroglyphs inside the elevators at my hotel; small details that constantly remind you of where you are. And I haven't mentioned the even older traditional North African and Arabian architectural styles.

I found the mix of ancient, modern, and everything in-between, very interesting. I would have loved to have stayed a bit longer to roam around more.

Overall it made me think that in sub Saharan Africa, and in Nigeria in particular, we have abandoned our traditional building styles, such that there is little in modern architecture that can be termed as a uniquely Nigerian style. Our traditional building styles techniques and practices, except perhaps for Hausa traditional architecture to a limited extent, have been largely abandoned and relegated to the past. What I saw in Egypt was the opposite. The Egyptians have brought their traditional styles into the 21st century, taking advantage of new technologies to advance that unique style of theirs. This made for a cultural richness and depth in their architecture that we might have had in Nigeria too, but don't have today in our buildings.— in Cairo, Egypt.

Lake Nakuru

I visited Lake Naivasha, and now regret not having gone onwards to Nakuru. But it's still on my bucket list, and next time I should also make it to Lake Bogoria. When one's companions are locals, the focus is in getting to know, understand, and share in their mundane everyday life experiences, which, although worthwhile in its own right, takes away from having the more usual touristic experiences.

The same happened in Congo where I missed out on visiting the famous Les Rapides, the powerful rapids on the Congo River; and the Nabemba Tower, Brazzaville's 30-storey skyscraper, because I was preoccupied with learning Lingala, the local language, or helping out my friend practice his English; and all this while sampling the local Congolese cuisine with considerable enthusiasm.

About 10,000 years ago, Lake Nakuru, in Kenya, together with neighbouring Lake Elementaita and Lake Naivasha (60 km further south), formed one single, deep freshwater lake that eventually dried up, leaving the three lakes as remnants.

Water levels in Lake Nakuru have since varied considerably, with the lake almost drying up several times over the past 50 years. A significant drop happened in the early 1990s. In 2013, levels again increased rapidly, leading to the migration of many flamingos to Lake Bogoria in search of food supply.

Lake Nakuru is famous for its large populations of flamingos, both greater and lesser flamingos, which are drawn to the lake's algae-rich waters. The number of flamingos at the lake can fluctuate due to water levels and algae availability. Flamingos feed on the algae in the lake, which thrives in the alkaline waters.

Between 2010 and 2020 Lake Nakuru increased in surface area from 40 to 68 square kilometres (15 to 26 sq mi). 677 households, parts of Nakuru town and some National Park areas had been flooded.

Since 2021, there has been an alarming increase in the rising water levels at the lake caused by climate change. This upsurge of water levels led to displacement of animals from the park and destruction of property, submersion of the main entrance gate and other park infrastructure.

Brazzaville 3

7 February, 2019

That being Anglophone is an endearing quality in itself is a reality that was unknown to me. At least not quite as strongly as it is now.

It first struck me many years ago while in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, how when anyone given the chance to practice their English who was within earshot of me struggling to have a conversation with someone else, would leap at the opportunity to interject, keen to be of assistance, help to interpret, then themselves try to engage me in conversation and say to me what English words they knew.

In Rio I heard the words "more or less" in reply to the question "do you speak English" so many times, that it seemed as if this was the standard answer to that question, at all times; and whether or not this person knew any more English than those three words.

Though I did not make much of it at the time, I do have a better understanding of it now. But the story of Rio de Janeiro is for another day, I intend for today to remain in Brazzaville.

My first impressions of Brazzaville have been altogether positive. The sights sounds and smells are familiar, and similar to those in other African cities I have visited. But there are things peculiar to Brazzaville that must be said.

First of all it is a clean and well ordered city and in ways that are unlike other similar cities. There is an almost complete absence of chaos, with smooth flowing traffic everywhere. It is obvious that keeping the streets clean and tidy is taken seriously, with a refuse bin positioned approximately every one hundred metres from the last one on every street in the city centre. Municipal workers and road sweeping machines are seen sweeping the streets constantly.

Then there is the conspicuous absence of motorcycle taxis, tricycle taxis or tuk-tuks, or indeed any vehicles of questionable roadability or age. On this point, Brazzaville is completely unique. The people too are on average better turned out than in most other African cities I have been to. I have seen no destitute people, although it might be naive to think that there are none. Also, I have seen no beggars on the streets, or street kids, both sights that are commonplace in other places I've been on the continent.

One thing of note, though, which I consider to be a bit sad, is the near absence in Brazzaville of old French colonial architecture, which for me is something of a disappointment, given the country's lengthy French colonial history; a history at par with that of countries like Senegal and Cote d'Ivoire, where colonial architecture is still aplenty and reasonably well preserved. Unfortunately, the historic Brazilian architecture in Lagos, Nigeria has in many cases not enjoyed that same level of conservation and appreciation. Most of that rich historical record, save for a few precious examples still bravely standing, has been lost in favour of soulless modern high-rise office blocks.

For Brazzaville it is not easy to understand the reasons why this record of history is scant, but the many newly constructed modern structures in Centre Ville, the city centre, might be an indication of where those colonial buildings once stood. I have heard of, and seen photos of a magnificent well preserved colonial railway terminal building in Pointe Noire, this country's second city. So perhaps there might be some redemption there.

Of course, as in any other similar country there are pockets of deprivation and poverty to be seen here and there, but these are less visible and less profound than in several of the other African capital cities I have visited. Brazzaville is well ordered and things are better organised than one might expect.

Also, to notice the overwhelming presence of 'big government' is unavoidable, since the government is apparently the largest employer. This could be one of the lasting vestiges of this country's experimentation with the socialist system during the 1970's and 80's, but there is also clearly to be seen a strongly emerging private sector, one that appears to be thriving.

Then there is the impact of Chinese finance, in particular, the impacts of that oriental funding on physical infrastructure development, and at a rapid rate; development that is expansive and visible across the city, and unmissable even from the air when approaching to land at the city's China-financed ultra-modern Maya-Maya Airport. The Republic of Congo is one of the African countries with a huge amount of Chinese debt.

On being Anglophone, well, others on realising this has quite often earned for me a smile from that person who just learned that I am English-speaking, then a discernible slight embarrassment that they are incapable of continuing with the conversation competently. Then when I try to salvage the situation by launching into my bad French, that inevitable rush to politely correct my faulty grammar.

#Travel— in Brazzaville, Republic of the Congo.

 

Brazzaville 2

6 February, 2019

The word 'pleasant' can hardly be used to describe the experience of being in several other cities in Africa, but for this city it is a word that can fairly be used. My stay here has been an unmitigatedly pleasant experience so far. 

The whole country, The Republic of Congo (Congo Brazzaville), is sparsely populated, with a population of only 5.2 million, of whom 1.37 million live in the capital Brazzaville. Kinshasa, which the capital of the Democratic Republic of Congo, is located just across the river (the Congo River) from where I am seated typing this. I can stare at the city of Kinshasa (Africa's third most populous) by just raising my head. Kinshasa's population alone is more than twice that of the whole country of Congo Brazzaville.

Population density for most of the city of Brazzaville in my estimation would be around 20-25 people per sq km on average. I have seen no crowds anywhere, but lots of open spaces, well tended gardens in public spaces like parks, ornate roundabouts (rondpoints), with fountains and statues of eminent people. 

I'm sure that there are aspects of the city that a visitor like myself here for the first time and only for a relatively short period will not be privy to. Those who live and work here permanently are better placed to give a more accurate report. Also, comments I have elicited so far from my contacts here would seem to suggest that they believe their lives aren't that great, and could be much better if they lived elsewhere. But I put this down to that 'the grass is greener on the other side' syndrome that many of us suffer without full appreciation of what we do have and enjoy where we are at present. 

The day-to-day living conditions for the ordinary Brazzaville resident for example, are better than those of the ordinary Nairobi, Accra or Lagos resident by far, who everyday has to contend with difficult and stressful traffic conditions, overcrowding, especially in Lagos, high crime rates, and so on. This is not to say that these are not relevant to Brazzaville also, but even if they were, it is to a much lesser degree and lower scale. And this not only because of the city's relatively smaller population and size, but because of just how well organised and well run the place is. 

Everything in Brazzaville seems to be working as it should, everything seems orderly. There is a noticeable absence of chaos. The taps are running (in the hotel) for example, mains water supply from the waterworks; individual private boreholes for water, familiar to most Nigerians, are unknown here. Traffic is flowing smoothly, things appear well ordered. Also, the electricity supply has been constant since I arrived. I am informed that outages when they occur are not for long, and are rare. There is no constant electricity generator noise in the background as in Lagos.

One thing I must briefly comment on though is that the experience for the African tourist in an African city is vastly different from that of the non African tourist. I have observed this everywhere I have been on the continent. I hope to be able to discuss this in more detail in a separate post at some time to come.

I write down things like this as a way to preserve my thoughts so that I can come back later to reminisce on my experiences at the time, and on how my mind reacted to those experiences. To share the thoughts on social media is a bonus. 

I like this place I am currently visiting, and I intend after this visit to visit it again in the future to explore it more deeply.

Brazzaville

10 February, 2019

"This modernist 1949 building was the crowning achievement of French architect Roger Erell, who was known for fusing Western architectural ideas with local building techniques. It's easily one of the city's most striking buildings, with its dazzling green roof and carved copper doors – try to come by around 5pm for mass, when the nave is a sea of beautifully dressed locals.". says Lonely Planet of this marvellous structure. 

It is described by one reviewer on Tripadvisor as: 

"This really is one of the highlights to visit in Brazzaville. The bright green roof is beautiful, and the copper panels on the doors are amazing! Easy to find in the walk-able downtown area."

Globe Holidays describes it as:

"A fabulous example of religious architecture which represents one of the most important religious monuments of Central Africa by presenting a combination of traditional techniques and innovations in Europe, a union that has made the basilica a formidable work. Covered with green tiles, the basilica was built in 1946... and today it is a destination not to be missed for those who go on holiday in Brazzaville."

I had heard of this basilica before I came to Brazzaville. So last evening after days of inclement weather that had impacted much of my outdoor activity, in the company of my friend Achille, we set out together on a long walk through the streets of Poto-Poto in downtown Brazzaville, with the intention eventually to wind up at the basilica. 

The sun had set by the time we reached our destination, or to be precise, the park immediately adjacent to the basilica. Where on several park benches were sat couples snuggled up together, shielded from prying eyes by the shadows and gloom of the dusk. As we picked our way gingerly across to the far side of the park, to the fence separating this park from the premises of the basilica itself, there was a sense of melancholy that I had arrived at this beautiful place not in bright sunlit daytime so as to take photos and to appreciate the basilica's beauty that much better. Nevertheless, we did get up as close to the building as we could, and took in as much of its magnificence as the limited visibility allowed. 

I take comfort in the knowledge that if asked the question "Did you see the Basilique Sainte-Anne?" The only answer, of course, is "Yes, I did". And it's true too. These photos I have posted here are not mine, unfortunately, but this is the basilica I saw last evening, complete with a view of a part of the park that I mentioned.

Moving on, that long walk itself left me with much to comment about. Marché Poto-Poto (Poto-Poto Market) is a busy sprawling market along the Rue de la Paix in the centre of town.

And it is full of West Africans. 

I noticed the pronounced difference about the place as soon as I reached it. It was very unlike the rest of Brazzaville that I had seen before then. It felt more like being in a bustling street market in Bamako, Mali, or somewhere in Burkina Faso, or northern Ghana.

This link provides some context. It is in French but is easily translated.  https://www.jeuneafrique.com/mag/255219/societe/congo-brazzaville-les-ouest-africains-rois-du-commerce/ 

It is the story of how during the colonial era the French colonial authorities had brought skilled workers over from West Africa to fill shortfalls in manpower in the Congo, and how many of those workers had stayed, and were followed subsequently by traders and other merchants.

Achille pointed out that most of the merchants here are of West African origin, but only after I had already noticed the sharp difference in tempo and ambience from the otherwise sedate Brazzaville that I had become accustomed to by then. It was noisier, rowdier, and it was surprising to me overhearing greetings shouted out in the Hausa language in a place in Central Africa so far away from Northern Nigeria. I had until then heard only French and the local Lingala language spoken at my lodgings, and everywhere else I had been. 

This was a very interesting mix of people and things, a Lebanese-owned ice cream parlour, boulangeries (bakeries) with French baguettes in the windows; patisseries; meats roasting over fires on the street; loud modern Congolese music blaring from loudspeakers in music stores leaving no one in doubt that this was in fact Congo, a very French Congo. 

There are two branches of Nigeria's United Bank for Africa (UBA) on this one street, (UBA is called ooo-bah here). And for good measure, for the very first time since I arrived in this city, I saw lots and lots of people together, with busy vehicular traffic, even busier pavements on both sides of the street and crowds of people shuffling past each other. This is only worth mentioning here because of how different from the rest of Brazzaville this area is, and how surprised I was by it. It was impossible not to notice how different it was. 

I've been having some trouble with the WiFi internet at my place, so I might be offline for a while. But even if I am, it won't be for long. And I'll soon be back home anyway, although having to leave this beautiful place is not something that I am particularly looking forward to. #TravelAfrica #ILoveAfrica #notjustwildlife #Africancities

My error-ridden schoolboy French is being stretched to the limit.

Visiting Botswana 8

The founders statues in Gaborone are known as the Three Dikgosi Monument and feature bronze statues of three chiefs: Khama III, Sebele I, and Bathoen I. 

These chiefs were instrumental in ensuring Botswana remained a British Protectorate and didn't become part of Cecil Rhodes's British South Africa Company, ultimately leading to the nation's independence in 1966. The monument, inaugurated in 2005, is a significant historical landmark and a popular tourist attraction in Gaborone's Central Business District (CBD).

The monument commemorates the 1895 trip to England by the three chiefs to protect their territories from annexation by the British South Africa Company. 

Visiting Botswana 7

I've made it back to Gaborone. If I'm to be honest, I secretly wished to remain in Kasane forever. It was that good.

I have tried to tell the story of today's journey through the pictures.

I really like this country. It's definitely Africa, but is devoid of the usual stresses one would normally associate with the African environment. It is laid back and easy-going, but prosperous at the same time.

On arrival back in Gaborone