The Defence

Highbury Corner Magistrates at Islington was one of my haunts in those heady days of Criminal Law practice, together with Camberwell Magistrates in South London, and Thames Magistrates at Bow Road in the East. I also sometimes strayed off my usual stomping grounds and headed to West London to attend juvenile court in Hammersmith, and right across London to places as far apart as Hendon, Westminster or Bromley, wherever my instructions required that I attend.

Criminal Law was always my favourite since from being a law student all those decades ago. And it was criminal defence, not prosecution. An unsuccessful attempt to join the Crown Prosecution Service as a prosecutor only reinforced this thought in my mind that I enjoyed being a criminal defence lawyer; visiting my clients when they were in police custody, or in prison - Wandsworth Prison, Brixton Prison, Wormwood Scrubs, Pentonville - getting to know them; seeking the most favourable outcomes for them, even when I knew they were guilty as hell. I guess there was a naughty side of me that took delight in this - siding with the bad guys, well, sort of.

Later when I moved on to more desk-bound roles, although equally intense and stressful - but better remunerated, the work was not quite as exciting, as, for example, springing my client out of jail who had been in custody for months and denied bail repeatedly; or successfully arguing for a suspended sentence for my client, even though I knew they deserved to be sent to prison. My overseas training was advantageous, because it came with the advocacy skills of a barrister that solicitors who are trained solely in England and Wales do not normally possess. I was involved in several Crown Court matters as well, the court where the more serious cases are tried, and where I sat behind barristers whom I had instructed. 

Given the limited audience rights of a solicitor in England, namely, audience rights limited to the lower courts, tribunals, panels, and so on, it is those lower court cases, especially some particularly fierce cross-examinations of prosecution witnesses that have remained in my thoughts for longer, since the advocacy itself was always my stronger side. 

Banjul, Gambia 2

In avoiding heavily touristed areas and touristy things, I have often gone out of my way to seek out quiet, less travelled spots in every travel destination I have newly arrived at. The belief is that hanging out with the locals is a good way of getting a more authentic and unvarnished experience of whichever location I'm visiting. This approach has worked out positively, and not only in the experiences which I might not otherwise have had if I was cocooned in some tourist enclave, resort or hotel, or if I moved around the place as part of a tourist excursion group. And this especially in my travels across the African continent where meeting local people, eating local foods, using public transport and so on, and making new friends, is more to my preference.

The Gambia is a major destination for tourism, with tourists mainly from Europe. So beach tourism is a big thing here, as are the organised curated boat trips up and down the Gambia River. There are also river lodges along the river targeting those foreign tourists. And while I understand the economic reasons behind these activities, and have nothing against any of them, for me personally, it has not come naturally to think of myself as a foreign tourist. I have always wanted to experience the places I visit in the same way as the locals would experience it. On this trip I stayed in a Gambian home located in a fairly densely populated residential district of the capital, ate Gambian meals, drank Gambian 'green tea', enjoyed Gambian jokes, and learned a lot about the different Gambian peoples. 

Of course there was the beach too, this is after all a big part of the lifestyle here. I sought out the beaches frequented by the locals, not being keen on the stereotypical tourist beach experience that, in my opinion, is the same, whether in the Bahamas, in Bali Indonesia, or in Mombasa. I wished for something uniquely Gambian.

Brufut Beach

Tanji Beach is an area for the local fisherpeople, traders and merchants of fish and other seafood; suppliers of fishing equipment and fuel for the fishing boats, and so on. It is not a tourist area.

So while everyone else was braving the waves and splashing around in the Atlantic Ocean, there I was resolutely remaining on dry land, utterly convinced that I am not an aquatic creature. This beach, though, is heavenly. If I lived anywhere nearby, I would be here every single day. At Brufut Beach,

Banjul, Gambia

Banjul was founded in 1816, when the British Colonial Office ordered Captain Alexander Grant to establish a military post on the river to suppress the slave trade and to serve as a trade outlet for British merchants ejected from Senegal, which had been restored to France. Grant chose Banjul Island (ceded by the chief of Kombo) as the site, which he renamed St. Mary’s. He named the new settlement for Henry Bathurst, 3rd Earl Bathurst, then colonial secretary of Great Britain.

Bathurst became the capital of the Crown Colony and Protectorate of The Gambia in 1889 and was granted city status in 1965 when The Gambia gained independence. The city's colonial grid layout and architecture reflect this period.

In 1973, the city was officially renamed Banjul. The new name is derived from the Mandinka people's word "Banjalu" referring to the fibres they used on the island to make ropes.

After a period of decline in the 1980s, much of the population moved to surrounding areas, forming the Greater Banjul area. Today, it remains the political and economic centre of the country, with infrastructure reflecting both its colonial past and modern development.

Banjul city is an island in the estuary of the Gambia River, and it is the central business district of this capital city most of which is however, located in Kanifing/Serrekunda, on the mainland.

Banjul island has the State House, National Assembly, the Supreme Court, in short, the seat of government. It is also where the Police Headquarters and the Port of Banjul are located, and some government departments, major banks and commercial enterprises, as well as the popular Banjul Market. It's a bustling little island, and like in most places in Africa where people gather in numbers, is lively and full of life.

We visited the ferry terminal from where the ferry from Banjul to Barra on the north bank of the Gambia River carries those whose intent mainly is to travel onwards to the Gambia/Senegal border, and then have a direct run to Dakar, Senegal from the border. We were still undecided whether to use this ferry to cross when we embark on our journey to Dakar, or whether to travel by the longer, 12-hour more scenic land route, which would guarantee that we pass through Senegalese towns like Kaolack, Fatick and Thies. I personally preferred the land route, but it wasn't I alone to make the decision.

Last Sunday we drove to Banjul island, also sometimes known as St. Mary's Island, This island is the central business district and the seat of government, but only on weekdays. At the weekend the island turns into a quiet, beautiful, quaint little treasure trove of history for enthusiasts like myself. I was so lost in enchantment as we drove through the quiet narrow streets that I even forgot to take photographs, with my mind replaying its imaginations on a loop of what the island might have been like two hundred years ago, and then drawing a connection between that time and what my eyes were seeing. I vaguely remember involuntary gasps of "Oh wow, Oh wow".

Kampala, Uganda 4

September, 2024

I also ventured 291 km to the west of Kampala, to Fort Portal in Kabarole District in the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains. The photos are not mine, but these are the dramatic landscapes I might have observed and the experiences I might have had, had I the courage to venture further uphill.

Uganda has turned out to be my favourite country in Africa, and not only for its natural beauty, although the natural beauty itself is truly remarkable. The variety of landscapes in this single country is astonishing. From papyrus wetlands, to hilly landscapes; from lush tropical rainforest, to savannah grassland with abundant wildlife; from pretty lake islands on Lake Victoria to beautiful littoral environments in Entebbe, Kampala and all along the lake shore; from busy cities and highways, to multiple scenic lakes, breath-taking waterfalls, and an entire mountain range with year-round snow-capped mountains and serene foothills. It's simply amazing, there is no other country like it in Africa.

South Africa might come in second place, with mountain ranges like the Drakensberg and others, as well as the veld, and the scenic coastal landscapes of the Eastern Cape and Western Cape. But all these, even if larger in scale, do not come close to the sheer variety of Uganda.

The Rwenzori Mountains, previously called the "Ruwenzori Range", is a mountain range of eastern equatorial Africa, located on the border between Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

"The Rwenzori Mountains are the highest and most permanent sources of the River Nile, and constitute a vital water catchment. Their multitude of fast flowing rivers, magnificent waterfalls and stratified vegetation make the property exceptionally scenic and beautiful." (UNESCO)

These mountains reach heights up to 5,109 metres (16,762 ft). The highest Rwenzori peaks are permanently snow-capped. The Rwenzori Mountains National Park and Virunga National Park are located in this range.

Environmentalists have expressed a lot of concern over the high melting rate of the glaciers atop this mountain range due to climate change.

See more here: https://www.brilliant-uganda.com/rwenzori-mountains...

The Kitandara lakes of the Rwenzori Mountains, which were formed by retreating glacier ice Credit: Hugh Kinsella Cunningham

The Rwenzori mountains are of cultural importance for two of the ethnic groups inhabiting the region Credit: Hugh Kinsella Cunningham

Trekking guides Gilbert Kule and Remigio Thembo observe the terminus of the Margherita glacier on Mount Stanley Credit: Hugh Kinsella Cunningham

Destroyed buildings caused by a series of floods between 2013 and 2020 along the Nyamwamba river, Uganda Credit: Hugh Kinsella Cunningham

Trekking guide Gilbert Kule walks across the 4000 metre Afromontane zone of the mountains Credit: Hugh Kinsella Cunningham

Kampala, Uganda 3

September, 2024

Kabaka's Lake

Kabaka's Lake is a man-made lake located in Kampala. It is one of the prominent landmarks in the city and holds great historical and cultural significance. It is the largest man-made lake in Uganda.

This lake was created during the late 19th century on the orders of Kabaka (King) Mwanga II of Buganda. The construction of the lake was a result of a power struggle between Mwanga and his Christian subjects. The lake was dug to serve as a water source and a defensive barrier for the king's palace.

Kampala, Uganda 2

12 September, 2024

My Thoughts About Uganda

Of all the African countries I have visited, Uganda has emerged at the very top of the favourability rankings. On this trip I did not stay long enough in Rwanda to form a substantive view on the place. What I did see in Rwanda though, was not the warm conviviality that greeted me in Uganda. Cool calm polite efficiency could easily be superficial.

Uganda is warm, friendly and genuine, in my experience, and I find those whom I have met to be articulate and well informed, regardless of their status or station in life. And they are not conceited. Also, they are understated, as exemplified by their top notch tourism industry that hardly ever makes the headlines and usually gets featured only in passing in popular tourism literature.

At 69% Nigeria's adult literacy rate is significantly lower than Uganda’s 80.59%. In Nigeria we are intelligent too, but our intelligence seems not always to be directed collectively towards the common good. Uganda is not perfect by any reckoning either, nowhere is. But it has clean streets, clean marketplaces, which speaks about the people and their attitudes. Things are better regulated and more tightly controlled than in Nigeria. In Uganda it is less likely that I would get food poisoning from drinking bottled water that I had bought on the street, as I did when I visited Kano, Nigeria, earlier this year and ended up sick and in a hospital bed.

Kampala, Uganda, is a genuinely pleasant city to be in. I prefer Kampala to Nairobi, Kenya, for example, for its authenticity, and the perceptible sense of self-assuredness and pride in its own identity. I think Nairobi (and Kenya in general) tries too hard to please foreign tourists. Kampala does no such thing, and has the self confidence to just be itself.

While political leaders across the continent can be rightly accused of leadership failure, and I am no lover of autocratic rule, credit must be accorded where it is due. The current political leadership in Uganda are largely responsible for the stability that makes this country such an attractive place. The proof of this is in the relatively large number of foreign nationals who come here to settle. This year foreign direct investments in Uganda have increased to 3.01 billion dollars, up from 2.8 billion dollars in 2023.

Postscript: I had started writing this before my time ran out and I had to start making my way to the airport. I concluded it after I had arrived back this morning. Cheers.— in Kampala, Uganda.

Uganda’s Independence Monument at Nile Avenue in Kampala

At the Namugongo Martyrs' Shrine

At the shore of Lake Victoria at Entebbe. The landscapes in and around Kampala are an interesting combination of hills and extensive papyrus swamps, wetlands. In that sense it is quite unique. Uganda, although landlocked, has a maritime feel nonetheless, with sea breezes from Lake Victoria and lakefront views in Entebbe and Kampala to rival any beachfront area anywhere in the world, even if calmer, more natural, and less touristy. I liked it a lot.  

Saint Paul's Cathedral Namirembe, commonly and locally referred to as Namirembe Cathedral, is the oldest Anglican cathedral in Uganda

Kampala, Uganda

 I was here.

"Tombs of Buganda Kings at Kasubi

The Tombs of Buganda Kings at Kasubi constitute a site embracing almost 30 ha of hillside within Kampala district. Most of the site is agricultural, farmed by traditional methods. At its core on the hilltop is the former palace of the Kabakas of Buganda, built in 1882 and converted into the royal burial ground in 1884. Four royal tombs now lie within the Muzibu Azaala Mpanga, the main building, which is circular and surmounted by a dome. It is a major example of an architectural achievement in organic materials, principally wood, thatch, reed, wattle and daub. The site's main significance lies, however, in its intangible values of belief, spirituality, continuity and identity."

The above description is by UNESCO https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1022/

Lake Nakuru

I visited Lake Naivasha, and now regret not having gone onwards to Nakuru. But it's still on my bucket list, and next time I should also make it to Lake Bogoria. When one's companions are locals, the focus is in getting to know, understand, and share in their mundane everyday life experiences, which, although worthwhile in its own right, takes away from having the more usual touristic experiences.

The same happened in Congo where I missed out on visiting the famous Les Rapides, the powerful rapids on the Congo River; and the Nabemba Tower, Brazzaville's 30-storey skyscraper, because I was preoccupied with learning Lingala, the local language, or helping out my friend practice his English; and all this while sampling the local Congolese cuisine with considerable enthusiasm.

About 10,000 years ago, Lake Nakuru, in Kenya, together with neighbouring Lake Elementaita and Lake Naivasha (60 km further south), formed one single, deep freshwater lake that eventually dried up, leaving the three lakes as remnants.

Water levels in Lake Nakuru have since varied considerably, with the lake almost drying up several times over the past 50 years. A significant drop happened in the early 1990s. In 2013, levels again increased rapidly, leading to the migration of many flamingos to Lake Bogoria in search of food supply.

Lake Nakuru is famous for its large populations of flamingos, both greater and lesser flamingos, which are drawn to the lake's algae-rich waters. The number of flamingos at the lake can fluctuate due to water levels and algae availability. Flamingos feed on the algae in the lake, which thrives in the alkaline waters.

Between 2010 and 2020 Lake Nakuru increased in surface area from 40 to 68 square kilometres (15 to 26 sq mi). 677 households, parts of Nakuru town and some National Park areas had been flooded.

Since 2021, there has been an alarming increase in the rising water levels at the lake caused by climate change. This upsurge of water levels led to displacement of animals from the park and destruction of property, submersion of the main entrance gate and other park infrastructure.

Brazzaville 3

7 February, 2019

That being Anglophone is an endearing quality in itself is a reality that was unknown to me. At least not quite as strongly as it is now.

It first struck me many years ago while in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, how when anyone given the chance to practice their English who was within earshot of me struggling to have a conversation with someone else, would leap at the opportunity to interject, keen to be of assistance, help to interpret, then themselves try to engage me in conversation and say to me what English words they knew.

In Rio I heard the words "more or less" in reply to the question "do you speak English" so many times, that it seemed as if this was the standard answer to that question, at all times; and whether or not this person knew any more English than those three words.

Though I did not make much of it at the time, I do have a better understanding of it now. But the story of Rio de Janeiro is for another day, I intend for today to remain in Brazzaville.

My first impressions of Brazzaville have been altogether positive. The sights sounds and smells are familiar, and similar to those in other African cities I have visited. But there are things peculiar to Brazzaville that must be said.

First of all it is a clean and well ordered city and in ways that are unlike other similar cities. There is an almost complete absence of chaos, with smooth flowing traffic everywhere. It is obvious that keeping the streets clean and tidy is taken seriously, with a refuse bin positioned approximately every one hundred metres from the last one on every street in the city centre. Municipal workers and road sweeping machines are seen sweeping the streets constantly.

Then there is the conspicuous absence of motorcycle taxis, tricycle taxis or tuk-tuks, or indeed any vehicles of questionable roadability or age. On this point, Brazzaville is completely unique. The people too are on average better turned out than in most other African cities I have been to. I have seen no destitute people, although it might be naive to think that there are none. Also, I have seen no beggars on the streets, or street kids, both sights that are commonplace in other places I've been on the continent.

One thing of note, though, which I consider to be a bit sad, is the near absence in Brazzaville of old French colonial architecture, which for me is something of a disappointment, given the country's lengthy French colonial history; a history at par with that of countries like Senegal and Cote d'Ivoire, where colonial architecture is still aplenty and reasonably well preserved. Unfortunately, the historic Brazilian architecture in Lagos, Nigeria has in many cases not enjoyed that same level of conservation and appreciation. Most of that rich historical record, save for a few precious examples still bravely standing, has been lost in favour of soulless modern high-rise office blocks.

For Brazzaville it is not easy to understand the reasons why this record of history is scant, but the many newly constructed modern structures in Centre Ville, the city centre, might be an indication of where those colonial buildings once stood. I have heard of, and seen photos of a magnificent well preserved colonial railway terminal building in Pointe Noire, this country's second city. So perhaps there might be some redemption there.

Of course, as in any other similar country there are pockets of deprivation and poverty to be seen here and there, but these are less visible and less profound than in several of the other African capital cities I have visited. Brazzaville is well ordered and things are better organised than one might expect.

Also, to notice the overwhelming presence of 'big government' is unavoidable, since the government is apparently the largest employer. This could be one of the lasting vestiges of this country's experimentation with the socialist system during the 1970's and 80's, but there is also clearly to be seen a strongly emerging private sector, one that appears to be thriving.

Then there is the impact of Chinese finance, in particular, the impacts of that oriental funding on physical infrastructure development, and at a rapid rate; development that is expansive and visible across the city, and unmissable even from the air when approaching to land at the city's China-financed ultra-modern Maya-Maya Airport. The Republic of Congo is one of the African countries with a huge amount of Chinese debt.

On being Anglophone, well, others on realising this has quite often earned for me a smile from that person who just learned that I am English-speaking, then a discernible slight embarrassment that they are incapable of continuing with the conversation competently. Then when I try to salvage the situation by launching into my bad French, that inevitable rush to politely correct my faulty grammar.

#Travel— in Brazzaville, Republic of the Congo.

 

Brazzaville 2

6 February, 2019

The word 'pleasant' can hardly be used to describe the experience of being in several other cities in Africa, but for this city it is a word that can fairly be used. My stay here has been an unmitigatedly pleasant experience so far. 

The whole country, The Republic of Congo (Congo Brazzaville), is sparsely populated, with a population of only 5.2 million, of whom 1.37 million live in the capital Brazzaville. Kinshasa, which the capital of the Democratic Republic of Congo, is located just across the river (the Congo River) from where I am seated typing this. I can stare at the city of Kinshasa (Africa's third most populous) by just raising my head. Kinshasa's population alone is more than twice that of the whole country of Congo Brazzaville.

Population density for most of the city of Brazzaville in my estimation would be around 20-25 people per sq km on average. I have seen no crowds anywhere, but lots of open spaces, well tended gardens in public spaces like parks, ornate roundabouts (rondpoints), with fountains and statues of eminent people. 

I'm sure that there are aspects of the city that a visitor like myself here for the first time and only for a relatively short period of time will not be privy to. Those who live and work here permanently are better placed to give a more accurate report. Also, comments I have elicited so far from my contacts here would seem to suggest that they believe their lives aren't that great, and could be much better if they lived elsewhere. But I put this down to that 'the grass is greener on the other side' syndrome that many of us suffer without full appreciation of what we do have and enjoy where we are at present. 

The day-to-day living conditions for the ordinary Brazzaville resident for example, are better than those of the ordinary Nairobi, Accra or Lagos resident by far, who everyday has to contend with difficult and stressful traffic conditions, overcrowding, especially in Lagos, high crime rates, and so on. This is not to say that these are not relevant to Brazzaville also, but even if they were, it is to a much lesser degree and lower scale. And this not only because of the city's relatively smaller population and size, but because of just how well organised and well run the place is. 

Everything in Brazzaville seems to be working as it should, everything seems orderly. There is a noticeable absence of chaos. The taps are running (in the hotel) for example, mains water supply from the waterworks; individual private boreholes for water, familiar to most Nigerians, are unknown here. Traffic is flowing smoothly, things appear well ordered. Also, the electricity supply has been constant since I arrived. I am informed that outages when they occur are not for long, and are rare. There is no constant electricity generator noise in the background as in Lagos.

One thing I must briefly comment on though, is that the experience for the African tourist in an African city is vastly different from that of the non African tourist. I have observed this everywhere I have been on the continent. I hope to be able to discuss this in more detail in a separate post at some time to come.

I write down things like this as a way to preserve my thoughts so that I can come back later to reminisce on my experiences at the time, and on how my mind reacted to those experiences. To share the thoughts on social media is a bonus. 

I like this place I am currently visiting, and I intend after this visit to visit it again in the future to explore it more deeply.

Brazzaville

10 February, 2019

"This modernist 1949 building was the crowning achievement of French architect Roger Erell, who was known for fusing Western architectural ideas with local building techniques. It's easily one of the city's most striking buildings, with its dazzling green roof and carved copper doors – try to come by around 5pm for mass, when the nave is a sea of beautifully dressed locals.". says Lonely Planet of this marvellous structure. 

It is described by one reviewer on Tripadvisor as: 

"This really is one of the highlights to visit in Brazzaville. The bright green roof is beautiful, and the copper panels on the doors are amazing! Easy to find in the walk-able downtown area."

Globe Holidays describes it as:

"A fabulous example of religious architecture which represents one of the most important religious monuments of Central Africa by presenting a combination of traditional techniques and innovations in Europe, a union that has made the basilica a formidable work. Covered with green tiles, the basilica was built in 1946... and today it is a destination not to be missed for those who go on holiday in Brazzaville."

I had heard of this basilica before I came to Brazzaville. So last evening after days of inclement weather that had impacted much of my outdoor activity, in the company of my friend Achille, we set out together on a long walk through the streets of Poto-Poto in downtown Brazzaville, with the intention eventually to wind up at the basilica. 

The sun had set by the time we reached our destination, or to be precise, the park immediately adjacent to the basilica. Where on several park benches were sat couples snuggled up together, shielded from prying eyes by the shadows and gloom of the dusk. As we picked our way gingerly across to the far side of the park, to the fence separating this park from the premises of the basilica itself, there was a sense of melancholy that I had arrived at this beautiful place not in bright sunlit daytime so as to take photos and to appreciate the basilica's beauty that much better. Nevertheless, we did get up as close to the building as we could, and took in as much of its magnificence as the limited visibility allowed. 

I take comfort in the knowledge that if asked the question "Did you see the Basilique Sainte-Anne?" The only answer, of course, is "Yes, I did". And it's true too. These photos I have posted here are not mine, unfortunately, but this is the basilica I saw last evening, complete with a view of a part of the park that I mentioned.

Moving on, that long walk itself left me with much to comment about. Marché Poto-Poto (Poto-Poto Market) is a busy sprawling market along the Rue de la Paix in the centre of town.

And it is full of West Africans. 

I noticed the pronounced difference about the place as soon as I reached it. It was very unlike the rest of Brazzaville that I had seen before then. It felt more like being in a bustling street market in Bamako, Mali, or somewhere in Burkina Faso, or northern Ghana.

This link provides some context. It is in French but is easily translated.  https://www.jeuneafrique.com/mag/255219/societe/congo-brazzaville-les-ouest-africains-rois-du-commerce/ 

It is the story of how during the colonial era the French colonial authorities had brought skilled workers over from West Africa to fill shortfalls in manpower in the Congo, and how many of those workers had stayed, and were followed subsequently by traders and other merchants.

Achille pointed out that most of the merchants here are of West African origin, but only after I had already noticed the sharp difference in tempo and ambience from the otherwise sedate Brazzaville that I had become accustomed to by then. It was noisier, rowdier, and it was surprising to me overhearing greetings shouted out in the Hausa language in a place in Central Africa so far away from Northern Nigeria. I had until then heard only French and the local Lingala language spoken at my lodgings, and everywhere else I had been. 

This was a very interesting mix of people and things, a Lebanese-owned ice cream parlour, boulangeries (bakeries) with French baguettes in the windows; patisseries; meats roasting over fires on the street; loud modern Congolese music blaring from loudspeakers in music stores leaving no one in doubt that this was in fact Congo, a very French Congo. 

There are two branches of Nigeria's United Bank for Africa (UBA) on this one street, (UBA is called ooo-bah here). And for good measure, for the very first time since I arrived in this city, I saw lots and lots of people together, with busy vehicular traffic, even busier pavements on both sides of the street and crowds of people shuffling past each other. This is only worth mentioning here because of how different from the rest of Brazzaville this area is, and how surprised I was by it. It was impossible not to notice how different it was. 

I've been having some trouble with the WiFi internet at my place, so I might be offline for a while. But even if I am, it won't be for long. And I'll soon be back home anyway, although having to leave this beautiful place is not something that I am particularly looking forward to. #TravelAfrica #ILoveAfrica #notjustwildlife #Africancities

My error-ridden schoolboy French is being stretched to the limit.