Nyiragongo

Mount Nyiragongo is an active stratovolcano in the Democratic Republic of Congo that contains the world's largest and most fluid active lava lake.

• Location: Virunga National Park, about 12 kilometres north of the city of Goma.

• Elevation: 3,470 meters (11,385 feet).

• Crater: The main crater is roughly two kilometers wide and holds a massive, churning pool of molten rock.

The Mount Nyiragongo lava lake is the largest semi-permanent pool of liquid magma on Earth. Suspended inside the volcano's massive two-kilometre-wide summit crater, it acts as a direct, open window into the Earth's mantle. The surface of the lake is covered by a dark, semi-solid crust of cooled rock. Driven by intense heat from a deep mantle plume, these solid plates constantly fracture, slide, and sink, revealing bright orange rivers of liquid magma underneath.

The level of the lake is never static. Magma pressures below cause the lake to rise and fall hundreds of meters over months or years. Volcanologists describe the inflating and deflating of the mountain as the "earth breathing"

The most dangerous characteristic of Nyiragongo's lava lake is that it sits significantly higher than the surrounding landscape. The main crater acts like a giant bowl holding millions of cubic meters of ultra-fluid magma.

When tectonic stress or seismic activity causes the crustal walls to fracture, the lake can drain completely in less than an hour. Instead of overflowing the rim, the lava punches through fissures on the volcano's flanks, racing downhill at speeds of up to 100 km/h directly toward the city of Goma. This rapid draining caused the catastrophic eruptions of 1977, 2002, and 2021.

Unlike volcanoes that explode upward, Nyiragongo’s primary hazard stems from fissures opening on its slopes, causing its massive lava lake to rapidly drain like an emptied basin. The most recent major disaster occurred when the volcano erupted with virtually no seismic warning signs. 

• Fractures opened along the volcano's southern flanks. Millions of cubic metres of highly fluid lava drained from the summit crater lake within hours.

• Human Impact: The lava advanced in two streams—one toward the Rwandan border and another directly south toward Goma. It incinerated entire neighbourhoods, destroyed over 3,600 homes, and killed at least 32 people (some from direct contact with lava, others from toxic gas asphyxiation).

• The Mass Evacuation: In the days following the initial flow, heavy secondary earthquakes rocked the region. Fearing a secondary flow or a limnic eruption from nearby Lake Kivu, authorities ordered a forced evacuation, displacing 400,000 residents.

Mount Nyiragongo’s intense activity is driven by a divergent plate boundary where the African continent is literally tearing itself apart.

Specifically, it sits within the Albertine Rift (the western branch of the East African Rift System), where the massive Nubian Plate and the Somalian Plate are pulling away from each other.

The Rift Mechanics Powering Nyiragongo

• Continental Rifting: As the Nubian and Somalian plates pull apart, the Earth's crust stretches, thins, and fractures. This tension drops the pressure on the underlying mantle, causing it to melt and form magma.

• Deep-Seated Mantle Plume: Beneath this tearing crust lies a thermal mantle plume (a hotspot of upwelling intense heat). This plume superheats the thinning lithosphere, forcing highly specialised magma to the surface.

• Fissure-Controlled Plumbing: Because the rift valley floor is heavily fractured by tectonic fault lines, magma does not just exit through the main peak. During major rifting adjustments, the volcano's flanks rip open along these fault lines, causing the lava lake to drain rapidly through low-altitude fissures.

Unique Magma Chemistry

The tectonic mechanics of the East African Rift give Nyiragongo’s lava a rare chemical 

footprint:

• Ultra-Low Silica: The magma originates from incredibly deep within the mantle and rises rapidly through the thinned rift crust without absorbing much silica (quartz) from continental rocks.

• Water-Like Fluidity: Low silica content means the lava has a very low viscosity. When a tectonic fracture opens the mountain, this fluid lava flows almost like water, creating a severe hazard for the nearby city of Goma.

If the East African Rift System continues to widen, it will fundamentally transform the geography of Africa, splitting the continent into two distinct landmasses and forming Earth's sixth ocean.

While tectonic plates move at a slow rate of roughly 5 to 7 millimeters per year, scientists estimate that this process could reach a full continental breakup within 5 to 10 million years.

This geological transformation will reshape the globe through several major geographic changes:

The Birth of a New Ocean Basin

As the Somali Plate (in the east) and the Nubian Plate (in the west) pull away from each other, the continental crust stretches and thins out. Over millions of years, the floor of the Great Rift Valley will drop low enough to slide below sea level. Eventually, seawater from the Red Sea and the Gulf of Aden will breach the low-lying Afar Depression. This water will flood down the length of the rift, creating a long, narrow sea that will eventually widen into a new ocean.

A New "Mini-Continent"

The easternmost portion of Africa—often referred to as the Horn of Africa—will detach completely from the mainland. This massive new island or "mini-continent" will drift into the Indian Ocean. It will be composed of:

• All of Somalia

• Large eastern portions of Ethiopia, Kenya, and Tanzania

• The entire geographic tip of the Horn of Africa

New Coastlines for Landlocked Nations

One of the most radical changes will occur on the newly formed coastlines of mainland Africa.

Modern-day landlocked countries located along the western branch of the rift valley will suddenly become coastal nations. Countries like Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, Malawi, and Zambia will sit directly on the shores of this new ocean, gaining direct maritime access to global trade routes.

Split Territories

For nations sitting directly on the fault lines, the rifting process will divide their modern borders. Countries like Ethiopia, Kenya, and Tanzania will be split into two pieces. Their western territories will remain attached to the African mainland, while their eastern territories drift away on the new Somali island.

Visit to Fort Portal

The Uganda countryside is very beautiful. Scenic, picturesque, rolling hills carpeted in green with a few rock outcrops the closer one gets to the Rwenzori foothills. Most of the land is cultivated, or in some other form of use. Land that is not cultivated for agriculture is often covered by extensive stretches of purposely planted eucalyptus or pine trees. There is precious little virgin tropical forest, but encountering such forests often offers sightings of baboons and other wild fauna. 

It was quite an interesting road journey, really, between Kampala and Fort Portal. I am in this post attempting to put together my thoughts and observations of, and during, the journey itself when these are still fresh in my memory, so as not to lose them and to capture them for posterity.

The 296km highway itself was fairly good, but rough and uncomfortable on those stretches where the road surface had suffered neglect, and was undergoing maintenance at the same time. So it was a combination of smooth road for a while, massive potholes on different stretches, and then stretches with extensive roadworks disrupting the flow of traffic, with each scenario occurring one after the other. For these reasons the journey was more tedious and took longer than it might have taken otherwise. 

The traffic was composed of ordinary private vehicles like ours, numerous brand new pickup trucks and 4x4s with government numberplates darting at high speed in both directions, many Heavy Goods Vehicles (HGVs), large buses, and smaller commercial vehicles, and also the ubiquitous Uganda motorcycles performing various functions. The motorcycle in Uganda appears to be an institution of its own. To be found everywhere, the motorcycle is undoubtedly the most popular utility vehicle, used for the transport of everything; from mattresses, to roofing sheets; from crates of soft drinks (colloquially known as "sodas") to entire families; the motorcycle is a fixture on the Ugandan road. The sight of a 5,000 litre polyurethane water tank balanced precariously on the passenger seat of a motorcycle was a sight for the ages.

These photos are of breathtakingly beautiful tea plantations in Kabarole District that I shakingly managed to capture with my phone as we approached Fort Portal, photos from a moving vehicle that do not do justice to just how spectacularly scenic the views truly were. Kabarole District itself, which is part of the Tooro Kingdom, had Fort Portal as its main town before 1 July, 2020, when Fort Portal was elevated to a city, and separated from Kabarole District. In that year, Fort Portal Municipality constituency became the Fort Portal City with an independent local government. The trip from Kampala to Fort Portal had us pass through towns like Mityana and Mubende. 

Fort Portal is covered in bunting for the new king's coronation tomorrow. Yep, I caught sight of the Rwenzori Mountain Range from a distance, but we're hoping tomorrow to move closer to it to get a better look. We're hitched up for the night in some hotel, but tomorrow we won't be hanging around for the coronation. After viewing the mountains, we intend to visit some hot springs, then some caves, and then drive over to Bunyoro to visit the Murchison Falls National Park. 

The streets of Fort Portal are very busy, but it's not clear if the streets are so busy this evening because of tomorrow's coronation. We went to see the Omukama's Palace, which is located on the top of a hill, and with visions in my mind's eye of the famous Princess Elizabeth of Tooro directing preparations for tomorrow's events. As I'm typing this while lying back in my hotel room, it's close to midnight. I realise that I was awoken from my sleep by a loud uproar across the city. I looked out of the window and on the street in front of me, in the darkness I saw a large procession of people singing and dancing in unison, moving in the direction of the palace. *I heard after I woke up in the morning that the procession was of the new king himself surrounded by supporters as he walked the four miles to the palace. So I inadvertently stumbled into a royal coronation in real life.*

Day's end tomorrow should see us back in Kampala. (It didn't, and it was not until two weeks later that I made it to Murchison).

Okay, so I woke in the middle of the night to type this. As I said, I did not want the thoughts to fade away. I have to go back to sleep now, tomorrow promises to be an even busier day, after which I shall have more to report. 

Postcript: I posted this contemporaneously on Facebook at the time, and then thought to share it again here on the blog.

Murchison Falls National Park, The Victoria Nile (Side note)

The Victoria Nile

At this point the Victoria Nile having flowed from Lake Victoria through Lake Kyoga and squeezed through the Murchison Falls (also known as Kabalega Falls), then flows onwards to Lake Albert approxiately 32 kilometres (20 miles) downriver. It then emerges as the Albert Nile when it flows out of the northern tip of Lake Albert as it travels north towards South Sudan. The Albert Nile and the Victoria Nile are part of the White Nile system.

I have now seen the rivers Nile, Niger, Congo and Zambezi up close. As children we learnt a song titled "The Rivers of Africa", a song that named the continent's main rivers—Nile, Niger, Senegal, Congo, Orange, Limpopo, Zambezi. I have also seen the Benue, Gambia, Volta, Chobe, Tana and Mara, the latter two in Kenya. 

As an aside, vertigo has become a recurring problem as I advance in age. It was apparent on this bridge again, just as it had been on the Kazungula Bridge over the Zambezi in Botswana last year. Vertigo is that false sensation that you or your surrounding environment is spinning, whirling, or moving when you are actually still. I almost lost my balance just from looking down at the river from on top of the bridge. 🙃

Murchison Falls National Park (Side note)

I captured this (and a few other shots) with my phone camera while seated in the car.

The Ugandan kob is a subspecies of the kob, and it is one of the most common species of antelope in Murchison. The coat of arms of Uganda features a Ugandan kob alongside a grey crowned crane.

At first glance, the Ugandan kob may be mistaken for the impala, but it is more heavily built. An average male weighs 94kg whilst an average female weighs 63kg.

In Murchison Falls National Park, lions prey on the plentiful supply of Ugandan kobs. We saw many of them, their unique, orangey colour stood out in the brush, even when just resting under a tree in the distance. 

We didn't see any large predators such as hyenas or any of the big cats, but I did explain to my friend that where there are a large number of prey animals, there must be large numbers of predators as well. We did see a herd of giraffes though, Rothschild's giraffes with their coats glowing, reflecting the soft sunlight, but they were too distant to capture properly on camera, although not for want of trying. We also saw a herd of elephants, African Savannah elephants, a family group, but also from a distance; and water buffalo mucking about in a mud pool. There were numerous impala too, and gazelles, and all manner of birds. 

The most striking feature for me, however, were the Borassus palm trees also known as palmyra palms that dominate the open savannah landscapes of the park's northern sector. The landscape's beauty was truly extraordinary, I had seen nothing like it before.

The Weight of the Closed Suitcase

The suitcase sits half-packed on the edge of the bed, a physical boundary between two entirely different states of existence. Outside the window, the sun is still warm, casting long, golden afternoon shadows across a landscape that has spent the last one month feeling effortless and slow. Inside the room, however, the psychological climate has already shifted. The holiday is not yet officially over, yet the mind has quietly abandoned the present, slipping ahead down the highway, past the airport gates, and straight into the grey, uncompromising machinery of everyday life.

There is a distinct, melancholic weight to this mental transition. During a holiday, time loses its sharp edges. Days are measured not by alarms or deadlines, but by the heat of the midday sun, the rhythm of your friends' moods, or the casual drift of an unplanned afternoon. Yet, as the final evening approaches, a subtle cognitive gravity takes over. The brain begins its defensive rehearsal for reality, pulling up unread email queues, doctor's appointments, and the domestic chores that have been left to gather dust in quiet defiance. The washing machine at home broke down before I made my escape, now I'm going to have to confront the reality of dealing with that problem the moment I return. Escapism is valid only for so long after all. 

Compounding this re-entry is the looming shadow of the season left behind—or rather, the season waiting ahead. To return from warmth and ease to the onset of winter, is a double displacement. It is the psychological shock of trading open horizons for sealed windows and the abrupt decent of pitch dark four-o'clock afternoons; the vibrant textures of travel for the muffled, monochromatic silence of cold months. The impending winter feels less like a natural change in the weather and more like a closing trapdoor. The mind projects forward into the chill, bracing itself for heavy coats, scraped windscreens, and the general hibernation of the human spirit.

And yet, this bittersweet ache is perhaps what gives a holiday its value in the first place. If leisure stretched out indefinitely without contrast, it would eventually lose its lustre; it is the impending return to the mundane that casts such a vivid, hyper-saturated glow over the final hours of escape. Standing in the quiet room with the zip half-pulled, one realises that the resistance to going back is proof of having been fully present.

The mundane tasks at home—the laundry, the mail, the early alarms—will inevitably be absorbed and conquered, just as they always are. For tonight, however, the mind lingers in the threshold, holding onto the warmth of the sun just a moment longer before turning towards the cold. 

Murchison Falls

A visit to Uganda’s Murchison Falls National Park is an unforgettable journey into the heart of wild East Africa. Located in northwestern Uganda about 300 kilometres from Kampala, the 3,840-square-kilometre reserve is Uganda’s largest and oldest national park, offering a dramatic mix of sweeping savannahs, palm-dotted plains, and the mighty Victoria Nile.

The adventure begins long before you enter the park gates. Driving northwest from Kampala, the road passes through changing Ugandan landscapes—bustling small towns, green banana plantations. In my head I was travelling from Buganda to Bunyoro, two of Uganda's oldest and most influential traditional kingdoms. As you approach Masindi that served as a royal capital or stronghold for past kings of Bunyoro like Omukama Kabalega during the 19th century, and descend the Bunyoro escarpment, the air grows warm and smells of sun-baked earth and wild grass. The sheer scale of the park hits you immediately as you cross into the sprawling savannah.

The climax of the trip is the waterfall itself. Here, the entire Victoria Nile forces its way through a narrow rock gap just seven metres wide and plunges 43 metres down into the "Devil’s Cauldron". The roar is deafening, shaking the ground beneath your feet and throwing a cool, permanent rainbow mist into the air. Hiking to the top of the falls allows you to feel the raw, untamed energy of the planet's most powerful waterfall.

Leaving Murchison Falls leaves a lasting impression—a rare place where the rhythm of wild Africa continues largely untouched.