Visiting Botswana 9 (Side notes)

I was waiting for the driver, and then this new friend of mine came round to keep me company. My friend likes chicken, I've been feeding him some scraps.

Oh, by the way, we came upon a whole herd of elephants as we approached Kazungula last evening, and even before that, the van we were travelling in had had to halt its progress when a bull elephant stepped into the middle of the road. And this happened just a couple of hundred metres from the next village, so the much talked about conflict between wildlife and humans showed up in stark relief right before our eyes.

The Bantu Migration

The Bantu Migration from their origins in southern West Africa saw a gradual population movement sweep through the central, eastern, and southern parts of the continent starting in the mid-2nd millennium BCE and finally ending before 1500 CE. With them, the Bantu brought new technologies and skills such as cultivating high-yield crops and iron-working which produced more efficient tools and weapons.

Eventually, the Bantu dominated, with the exception of South Africa and the Namibian desert, all of the African continent south of a line crossing from southern Nigeria to Kenya. In all, some 500 languages spoken today in that vast area are derived from the Proto-Bantu language. Although most historians would agree on the general occurrence of the Bantu migrations across Africa, the precise timings, motivations, routes, and consequences are all still being debated.

The Bantu

The Bantu were agriculturalists who spoke various dialects of the Bantu language. Their heartland was the savannah and rain forest regions around the Niger River of southern West Africa (modern Nigeria, Cameroon, and Gabon). Using both stone and iron tools, they successfully grew crops such as millet, sorghum, dry rice, beans, oil palms, and melons, although they did so at a subsistence level, that is they grew only sufficient crops to meet their own needs. They had the technology to create iron from iron ore, but where this came from is not known except that the three most likely possibles are: the knowledge was introduced by the Phoenicians in the north, the Egyptians or Kushites in the east, or it was acquired locally and independently.

Migration East & South

During the 2nd millennium BCE, small population groups of Bantu began to migrate into Central Africa and then across to the Great Lakes region of East Africa. This movement can be traced by the study of linguistics - a technique known as lexicostatistics - and observation of the relative closeness of local languages to each other and the language originally spoken by the Bantu people of the Niger River delta: Proto-Bantu. At the same time, one should be cautious with such studies as the passage of a language may not necessarily reflect the migration of its speakers. The same might be said of cultural practices and technologies.

It was the Bantu people who founded the coastal settlements of East Africa, what would become, with the addition of Muslim traders from Arabia and Persia from the 7th century CE, the Swahili Coast. From southern West Africa (the West Bantu) and the Great Rift Valley of East Africa (the East Bantu) two streams of Bantu peoples then moved further south in a second wave of migration which occurred during the 1st millennium BCE. A third wave of migration, in the first half of the 1st millennium CE, then took place as the East Bantu peoples moved even further south into what is today Zimbabwe, Botswana, Mozambique, and eastern South Africa.

The process of the Bantu migration has traditionally been seen by scholars as a gradual one of filtering down from village to village (and sometimes back again) through a rather sparsely populated Africa. However, the UNESCO General History of Africa puts a rather different slant on the process, at least in regards to the first wave: 

"The main expansion of the Bantu was vast and fast, not a series of gradual stages as some have argued. But it was a matter neither of purposeless nomadic wandering, nor of organized military conquest. It was a remarkable process of colonization - in the true sense of the word - the opening up of essentially empty lands." (Mokhtar, 320)

The Bantu shared their knowledge of iron-smelting, pottery-making, and their farming skills with indigenous forager and nomadic tribes they met, many of whom eventually then settled into stable village communities. Bantu dialects and aspects of Bantu culture were adopted, although the migrants, it is important to note, also learnt from the indigenous peoples, especially in areas like the cultivation of some grain crops or fishing techniques which had been perfected over centuries to get the best from the specific local environmental conditions. In addition, many cultural practices - the use of stone and obsidian tools, to give but one example - often continued to be used in parallel with the Bantu people's superior technologies.

More here:

https://www.worldhistory.org/Bantu_Migration/

Note: The word "Bantu", although sometimes used as a perjorative, or as derogatory term by racists, is in fact a native African term, a compound word, 'Ba-ntu', which is plural for 'person'. So it literally means 'persons' or 'people'. The singular varies. It could be 'Mu' or 'Mo', ie., mo-ntu, or mu-ntu, literally meaning a person, (Muganda-singular/Baganda-plural, Motswana-singular/Batswana-plural). Bantus also use prefixes like 'Wa' or 'Ki' (WaHutu, KiKongo).

Meeting new people

Having been travelling around the African continent for the best part of twenty years, I want to take stock and reflect on the lasting impressions those experiences have had on me. I believe I can safely claim to be in a position where I am able to fairly and objectively compare the impressions I've had, one against the other, city by city, country by country, or even region by region. What I shall be comparing is how easy it has been, or not, to talk to people and form new friendships. 

Starting with the good, East Africa as a whole, for me, proved to be the most liveable region, and I have visited all five regions—North Africa, West Africa, Central Africa, Southern Africa, and East Africa. Both Kenya and Uganda have left positive impressions on my mind. I did not stay long enough in Rwanda to form a substantive impression, but there is nothing negative to be said from that short stay. I have found that in all of my travels on the continent, Kenyans, in particular, are the easiest to talk to and to get along with. I always look forward to having a conversation with a Kenyan because you're almost guaranteed that they would be open and forthright, and be without restraint, even if they're not telling you the truth, which is rare. Ugandans too are easy to talk to, but to a somewhat lesser degree because they tend to be more formal and restrained.

In Southern Africa the conviviality I saw—and I saw a lot of it—was not extended to me to the extent that I might have wished. This caused me to be constantly reminded of my status as an outsider. It was the same both in South Africa and Botswana, save for one exception, Mandla, the Zulu gentleman in Johannesburg with whom I engaged in lengthy conversations that I secretly wished would go on forever for being so delightful. Most other times the language spoken around me was not English, so I found myself almost always on the outside and not able to engage and participate, and for this reason was unable to make new friends. Nevertheless, my Motswana friend whom I had gone to visit in Botswana was outstanding. He saw to it that I did not have a single lonely moment.

Central Africa is represented here by the Republic of Congo, or Congo Brazzaville. It was here that the disadvantage of not being proficient in the main language(s) came into full effect. The predominant languages here are French, Lingala and Kikongo, and as an English speaker one might as well be invisible. I did try to assert myself though, by demonstrating my limited French language skills, but to no avail. I guess It was fortunate that my friend was keen to practice and improve on his English, so he took me under his wing, acting as a shield against the barrage of incomprehension that I had to confront. No, it was not easy meeting new people and making new friends here, but mainly because of the language barrier. In attitude, the people were just as convivial as any others, and had my French been that little bit more practiced, I might have fared better. 

North Africa presented itself to me not as warm and friendly. Instead, the feeling was one that was cold, almost as if any friendliness from my direction was unneeded. I came away feeling that I would not be keen to return, and in fact, that I would avoid this part of the continent.  

West Africa has more variation in character than can be described in a single paragraph. There is little similarity in establishing social contacts between, for example, in Togo, and The Gambia. Etiquette and temperament are different. So is language. Some societies are more tolerant and liberal; some are overtly religious and downright conservative. It is not an easy landscape to navigate, a lesson I learned the hard way having arrived in The Gambia with expectations that later proved to be misplaced. 

In my experience though, it is West Africa that offers the warmest friendliest people, in Nigeria especially, but also in places like Benin and Liberia. The warm boisterous nature of the ordinary Nigerian makes him or her an easy friend to make. I could say the same for the Beninese, and the Liberians, except for them not being quite as direct and assertive as the average Nigerian, who normally is a pleasure to be around. Ivorians might possibly fall into this category as well,  but those not mentioned specifically here are those whom I have found to be somewhat complicated. In saying all this, I speak for myself alone, and am informed solely by own personal observations. Peace. 

Visiting Botswana 8

The founders statues in Gaborone are known as the Three Dikgosi Monument and feature bronze statues of three chiefs: Khama III, Sebele I, and Bathoen I. 

These chiefs were instrumental in ensuring Botswana remained a British Protectorate and didn't become part of Cecil Rhodes's British South Africa Company, ultimately leading to the nation's independence in 1966. The monument, inaugurated in 2005, is a significant historical landmark and a popular tourist attraction in Gaborone's Central Business District (CBD).

The monument commemorates the 1895 trip to England by the three chiefs to protect their territories from annexation by the British South Africa Company. 

Visiting Botswana 7

I've made it back to Gaborone. If I'm to be honest, I secretly wished to remain in Kasane forever. It was that good.

I have tried to tell the story of today's journey through the pictures.

I really like this country. It's definitely Africa, but is devoid of the usual stresses one would normally associate with the African environment. It is laid back and easy-going, but prosperous at the same time.

On arrival back in Gaborone

Visiting Botswana 6

Colloquially known as "Kasane Italy" this beautiful spot is a portion of the shoreline of the Chobe River in Kasane, Botswana, that is reserved for the locals to enjoy. The bank on the other side of the river from here is Namibia's Impalila Island.

It was nice to see sophisticated Africans engaged in recreation activity. I felt relaxed and comfortable here, more so than I might have been had we been allowed (which we were not) into those parts of the riverbank that are cordoned off for the exclusive enjoyment of the well-heeled clientele of the numerous expensive lodges in this part of town, mostly foreign tourists from places like Namibia and South Africa, (I observed the numberplates on their vehicles).

The racial hierarchy that has dominated the history of this part of our continent over the last two centuries is still very much at play. Even if more subtle, it is still observable, and it rubs me the wrong way. But that's just my point of view. Perhaps I might not be taking into account other factors that make this inevitable.

Here we're being denied access to a part of the riverbank

Visiting Botswana 5

Lobatse

It's a pretty, little town.

Lobatse is near the South African border. It's history began with early Bakwena and Bangwaketse settlements before its establishment by colonialists in the 1890s as a railway and administrative hub. Initially considered for the national capital, it instead became a significant political and legal centre, hosting the Bechuanaland Legislative Council which drafted Botswana's constitution, and serving as a refuge for political dissidents like Nelson Mandela and Samora Machel.

Today, it remains a key economic centre, particularly for the Botswana Meat Commission, and is home to the Botswana High Court. (I saw both).

The modern town was officially founded in 1896 by the British colonial administration.

It served as a strategic location for administration and as a construction camp for the railway line built from Mafikeng to Bulawayo.

Other institutions include the S'brana psychiatric hospital. (I saw this too).

PS: I took all these photos myself.

Visiting Botswana 4

We drove past this vintage railway carriage in Gaborone quite a few times. It is on display at the National Museum, even though I didn't make it into the museum itself. The carriage is viewable from the road.

This Rhodesia Railways coach was donated to the Botswana Society by the then National Railways of Rhodesia in 1975. The coach was built in 1931 and is still in good condition, serving as a historical exhibit that allows visitors to see a piece of the era when Rhodesia Railways operated through Botswana.

Rhodesia Railways operated a vital railway line through Botswana (then the Bechuanaland Protectorate), connecting it to the sea via Cape Town in South Africa. This line facilitated trade and transport for both Rhodesia and Botswana. The 1931 coach is a tangible link to that period.

This railway line was an extension of Cecil Rhodes' ambition to connect Cape Town to Cairo, aiming to solidify British imperial control and facilitate the transport of resources. Construction began from Mafeking (in South Africa) in 1894, travelling north through Bechuanaland (Botswana) before reaching Bulawayo (Zimbabwe) in 1897. It provided a crucial link for the fledgling colonial territory of Rhodesia.

 

Visiting Botswana 3

According to Tripadvisor, "Flame of Africa offers fishing trips both along the Chobe River and up the Kasai Channel towards the Zambezi River."

There was even a floating restaurant on one of the boats, although, if I'm to be frank, none of the activities offered here was to my taste. For starters, even the floating jetty wobbled under my feet as we walked across towards the boats. No surprises then that my visit lasted for just a few minutes before terra firma beckoned; but it was enough time to memorialise the moment in rapidly snapped photos.

Maphorisa, my guide, suggested that he book me on what he described as a "game ride" on one of these open-deck vehicle things, the better for viewing wildlife out in the wild. But I declined. I'd had enough excitement for one day by then.

Moreover, I find myself more inclined in my thinking towards the ancestral African's attitude to the wildlife he shared the land with. Wildlife do not exist for the purpose of human entertainment, or human amusement. Save for studying them or hunting them for food, the animals should be respected and left alone. I have not and still do not consider myself to be just another run-of-the-mill safari tourist. So there isn't much appeal there. I already saw elephants, baboons, meerkats (for the first time in their natural habitat), and hippos, which were easily mistaken for logs floating in the river.

 

 

Visiting Botswana 2

Made the journey from Gaborone in the far south to Kasane up north, in the Chobe District, by road. Mainly for the chance to see the entire country, but limited of course to what was observable from the window of a vehicle proceeding at high speed on the A1 Highway, the main north-south artery, with stopovers in towns like Mahalapye, Tonota and of course Francistown, the country's second largest city. 

It was a whole day's journey, but well worth it when I caught sight of several herds of elephants as we approached Kazungula, only a few kilometres from Kasane. Our van came to a halt when a huge bull elephant stepped majestically into the middle of the road in what seemed like a show of declaring who the real boss is around here. Our guesthouse is in Kazungula where the bridge across the Zambezi River (constructed in 2014) is located. To walk on this bridge to the Quadripoint where the borders of four countries meet was always intended to be one of the highlights of this trip.

The Bridge

In the first photo is the confluence of two rivers. The Chobe River on the left and the Zambezi River on the right. In the middle is the Namibian island of Impalila. On the far bank of the Zambezi is Zambia. I took this photo from the Kazungula Bridge.

The Chobe River

The Chobe begins in the highlands of Angola, where it is known as the Kwando River. After entering Botswana, the Kwando becomes the Linyanti and forms the Linyanti Marshes. Near the Ngoma Bridge, the river emerges from the marshes as the Chobe River and flows east to join the Zambezi River near Kasane.

In Kasane itself the driver took me to some marshy land on the bank of the Chobe River that is rich in salt, which was clearly visible on the ground in its white form. And it was clear from the large hoofprints and the large amounts of dung in the area that it was frequently visited by elephants and water bufallo. Elephants and water buffalo are drawn to mineral-rich salt deposits for essential nutrients like sodium, calcium, and phosphorus, which are vital for their health and growth but often scarce in their regular diets of vegetation. (I took some photos of this marshy area and intend to do a different post on this. In this marshland, I saw bubbling springs of fresh water coming out of the ground and then flowing into the Chobe River. It is clearly one of the many similar sources of the river's water).

The Zambezi River

The Zambezi is the fourth-longest river in Africa, the longest east-flowing river in Africa and the largest flowing into the Indian Ocean from Africa. The river starts in Zambia, flows successively through Angola, Zambia again, borders Namibia, Botswana and Zimbabwe, through Mozambique where it enters the ocean. The Zambezi River source is a bubbling spring in a marshy bog located near the town of Ikelenge in the Mwinilunga District of north-western Zambia.

Walking across the Kazungula Bridge from Botswana to Zambia.

And there I was, in person, right on the bridge, walking across the mighty Zambezi River, walking from Botswana to Zambia, across The Quadripoint. Seeing the four countries all at once was surreal. I had dreamt of this moment for years. First it was the Namibian island of Impalila to the left, then ahead of me was Zambia (the border posts for both Botswana and Zambia are on the Zambian end of the bridge). To the right was Zimbabwe, and behind me was Botswana where I was coming from.

I had not expected to see the amount of pedestrian traffic that I saw on this bridge, mostly Zambians who had crossed over to Botswana on foot, and by bicycle, and were returning home. They weren't very many, in truth, but they were more than I had expected. The majority of the vehicular traffic was composed of Heavy Goods Vehicles transporting cargoes across the continent. The Victoria Falls Bridge downriver from here has an 18-tonne axle load limit for vehicles, so the vehicles that come this way are huge, and as they drove past the wind swirled around me in the middle of the bridge. I nearly lost my balance several times and learned for the first time that I perhaps suffer from vertigo. There were also some smaller commercial vehicles, mainly from Botswana, ferrying people across to Zambia and back. I saw a few Zambian taxis too, but it was the individuals whom one said hello to on the bridge as we passed each other in the middle of having a shared experience that was the more memorable part.

 

A confluence of two rivers.

Visiting Botswana

I finally arrived in Gaborone after more than the 30 hrs it took to get here. There were delays by Air Botswana that meant I remained in Johannesburg for longer than expected. But I arrived last evening around 7pm Central African Time. My host at the lodgings has gone out of his way to lay on everything almost to excess. What I have seen of this city so far has lived up to my expectations.

Clear blue sky from horizon to horizon with not a hint of a cloud anywhere. I am informed by two reliable sources that no rain has fallen here since March of this year. This, now, is September, 2025, as the southern hemisphere is emerging from its winter. Daytime temperatures can top 33°C (91.4°F), but night-time temperatures plummet to 10°C - 11°C (50°F - 52°F). This is a difference in temperature similar to what obtains in other arid, or semi arid, regions with low humidity (dry air) and no proximity to large bodies of water to mitigate the heat loss - (water traps heat and cools more slowly than land). The absence of clouds also necessarily implies that the heat of the daytime freely escapes into the atmosphere at night, with no cloud cover acting as a blanket to hold back the heat from escaping. Overall it's hot and dry here, but not too harsh; nothing like what we see, for example, in the Sahel regions of West Africa. Here, after all, is outside the tropics; it is south of the Tropic of Capricorn. The Tropic of Capricorn passes near Gaborone, the city is just south of the line, placing it just outside the tropics. Taking this drive out of town was only one of the items on our itinerary today. We did lots of other things besides, including my first solo adventure into a wineshop to make purchases while trying out a new language. Suffice it to say then that I'm having a lot of new experiences that I hope sometime to talk about.