Brazzaville 2

6 February, 2019

The word 'pleasant' can hardly be used to describe the experience of being in several other cities in Africa, but for this city it is a word that can fairly be used. My stay here has been an unmitigatedly pleasant experience so far. 

The whole country, The Republic of Congo (Congo Brazzaville) is sparsely populated, with a population of only 5.2 million, of whom 1.37 million live in the capital Brazzaville. Kinshasa, which the capital of the Democratic Republic of Congo, is located just across the river (the Congo River) from where I am seated typing this. I can stare at the city of Kinshasa (Africa's third most populous) just by raising my head. Kinshasa's population alone is more than twice that of the whole country of Congo Brazzaville.

Population density for most of the city of Brazzaville in my estimation would be around 20-25 people per sq km on average. I have seen no crowds anywhere, but lots of open spaces, well tended gardens in public spaces like parks, ornate roundabouts (rondpoints), with fountains and statues of eminent people. 

I'm sure that there are aspects of the city that a visitor like myself here for the first time and only for a relatively short period of time would not be privy to. Those who live and work here permanently are better placed to give a more accurate report. Also, comments I have elicited so far from my contacts here would seem to suggest that they believe their lives aren't that great, and could be much better if they lived elsewhere. But I put this down to that 'the grass is greener on the other side' syndrome that many of us suffer without full appreciation of what we do have and enjoy where we are at present. 

The day-to-day living conditions for the ordinary Brazzaville resident for example, are better than those of the ordinary Nairobi, Accra, or Lagos resident, by far, who everyday has to contend with difficult and stressful traffic conditions, overcrowding, especially in Lagos, high crime rates, and so on. This is not to say that these are not relevant to Brazzaville too, but even if they were, it is to a much lesser degree, and lower scale. And this not only because of the city's relatively smaller population and size, but because of just how well organised and well run the place is. 

Everything in Brazzaville seems to be working as it should, everything seems orderly. There is a noticeable absence of chaos. The taps are running (in the hotel) for example, mains water supply from the waterworks; individual private boreholes for water, familiar to most Nigerians, are unknown here. Traffic is flowing smoothly, things appear well ordered. Also, the electricity supply has been constant since I arrived. I am informed that outages when they occur are not for long, and are rare. There is no constant electricity generator noise in the background as in Lagos.

One thing I must briefly comment on though, is that the experiences of the African tourist in an African city are vastly different from those of the non African tourist, including blending in more readily, and seeing places and doing things that might not come so easily if one stood out from the crowd. I have observed this everywhere I have been on the continent, and I hope to be able to discuss this in more detail in a separate post at some time to come.

I write down things like this as a way to preserve my thoughts so that I can come back later to reminisce on my experiences at the time, and on how my mind reacted to those experiences. To share the thoughts on social media is a bonus. 

I like this place that I am currently visiting and I intend after this visit, to visit it again sometime in the future to explore it more deeply.

Brazzaville

10 February, 2019

"This modernist 1949 building was the crowning achievement of French architect Roger Erell, who was known for fusing Western architectural ideas with local building techniques. It's easily one of the city's most striking buildings, with its dazzling green roof and carved copper doors – try to come by around 5pm for mass, when the nave is a sea of beautifully dressed locals.". says Lonely Planet of this marvellous structure. 

It is described by one reviewer on Tripadvisor as: 

"This really is one of the highlights to visit in Brazzaville. The bright green roof is beautiful, and the copper panels on the doors are amazing! Easy to find in the walk-able downtown area."

Globe Holidays describes it as:

"A fabulous example of religious architecture which represents one of the most important religious monuments of Central Africa by presenting a combination of traditional techniques and innovations in Europe, a union that has made the basilica a formidable work. Covered with green tiles, the basilica was built in 1946... and today it is a destination not to be missed for those who go on holiday in Brazzaville."

I had heard of this basilica before I came to Brazzaville. So last evening after days of inclement weather that had impacted much of my outdoor activity, in the company of my friend Achille, we set out together on a long walk through the streets of Poto-Poto in downtown Brazzaville, with the intention eventually to wind up at the basilica. 

The sun had set by the time we reached our destination, or to be precise, the park immediately adjacent to the basilica. Where on several park benches were sat couples snuggled up together, shielded from prying eyes by the shadows and gloom of the dusk. As we picked our way gingerly across to the far side of the park, to the fence separating this park from the premises of the basilica itself, there was a sense of melancholy that I had arrived at this beautiful place not in bright sunlit daytime so as to take photos and to appreciate the basilica's beauty that much better. Nevertheless, we did get up as close to the building as we could, and took in as much of its magnificence as the limited visibility allowed. 

I take comfort in the knowledge that if asked the question "Did you see the Basilique Sainte-Anne?" The only answer, of course, is "Yes, I did". And it's true too. These photos I have posted here are not mine, unfortunately, but this is the basilica I saw last evening, complete with a view of a part of the park that I mentioned.

Moving on, that long walk itself left me with much to comment about. Marché Poto-Poto (Poto-Poto Market) is a busy sprawling market along the Rue de la Paix in the centre of town.

And it is full of West Africans. 

I noticed the pronounced difference about the place as soon as I reached it. It was very unlike the rest of Brazzaville that I had seen before then. It felt more like being in a bustling street market in Bamako, Mali, or somewhere in Burkina Faso, or northern Ghana.

This link provides some context. It is in French but is easily translated.  https://www.jeuneafrique.com/mag/255219/societe/congo-brazzaville-les-ouest-africains-rois-du-commerce/ 

It is the story of how during the colonial era the French colonial authorities had brought skilled workers over from West Africa to fill shortfalls in manpower in the Congo, and how many of those workers had stayed, and were followed subsequently by traders and other merchants.

Achille pointed out that most of the merchants here are of West African origin, but only after I had already noticed the sharp difference in tempo and ambience from the otherwise sedate Brazzaville that I had become accustomed to by then. It was noisier, rowdier, and it was surprising to me overhearing greetings shouted out in the Hausa language in a place in Central Africa so far away from Northern Nigeria. I had until then heard only French and the local Lingala language spoken at my lodgings, and everywhere else I had been. 

This was a very interesting mix of people and things, a Lebanese-owned ice cream parlour, boulangeries (bakeries) with French baguettes in the windows; patisseries; meats roasting over fires on the street; loud modern Congolese music blaring from loudspeakers in music stores leaving no one in doubt that this was in fact Congo, a very French Congo. 

There are two branches of Nigeria's United Bank for Africa (UBA) on this one street, (UBA is called ooo-bah here). And for good measure, for the very first time since I arrived in this city, I saw lots and lots of people together, with busy vehicular traffic, even busier pavements on both sides of the street and crowds of people shuffling past each other. This is only worth mentioning here because of how different from the rest of Brazzaville this area is, and how surprised I was by it. It was impossible not to notice how different it was. 

I've been having some trouble with the WiFi internet at my place, so I might be offline for a while. But even if I am, it won't be for long. And I'll soon be back home anyway, although having to leave this beautiful place is not something that I am particularly looking forward to. #TravelAfrica #ILoveAfrica #notjustwildlife #Africancities

My error-ridden schoolboy French is being stretched to the limit.

Visiting Botswana 8

The founders statues in Gaborone are known as the Three Dikgosi Monument and feature bronze statues of three chiefs: Khama III, Sebele I, and Bathoen I. 

These chiefs were instrumental in ensuring Botswana remained a British Protectorate and didn't become part of Cecil Rhodes's British South Africa Company, ultimately leading to the nation's independence in 1966. The monument, inaugurated in 2005, is a significant historical landmark and a popular tourist attraction in Gaborone's Central Business District (CBD).

The monument commemorates the 1895 trip to England by the three chiefs to protect their territories from annexation by the British South Africa Company. 

Visiting Botswana 7

I've made it back to Gaborone. If I'm to be honest, I secretly wished to remain in Kasane forever. It was that good.

I have tried to tell the story of today's journey through the pictures.

I really like this country. It's definitely Africa, but is devoid of the usual stresses one would normally associate with the African environment. It is laid back and easy-going, but prosperous at the same time.

On arrival back in Gaborone

Visiting Botswana 6

Colloquially known as "Kasane Italy" this beautiful spot is a portion of the shoreline of the Chobe River in Kasane, Botswana, that is reserved for the locals to enjoy. The bank on the other side of the river from here is Namibia's Impalila Island.

It was nice to see sophisticated Africans engaged in recreation activity. I felt relaxed and comfortable here, more so than I might have been had we been allowed (which we were not) into those parts of the riverbank that are cordoned off for the exclusive enjoyment of the well-heeled clientele of the numerous expensive lodges in this part of town, mostly foreign tourists from places like Namibia and South Africa, (I observed the numberplates on their vehicles).

The racial hierarchy that has dominated the history of this part of our continent over the last two centuries is still very much at play. Even if more subtle, it is still observable, and it rubs me the wrong way. But that's just my point of view. Perhaps I might not be taking into account other factors that make this inevitable.

Here we're being denied access to a part of the riverbank

Visiting Botswana 5

Lobatse

It's a pretty, little town.

Lobatse is near the South African border. It's history began with early Bakwena and Bangwaketse settlements before its establishment by colonialists in the 1890s as a railway and administrative hub. Initially considered for the national capital, it instead became a significant political and legal centre, hosting the Bechuanaland Legislative Council which drafted Botswana's constitution, and serving as a refuge for political dissidents like Nelson Mandela and Samora Machel.

Today, it remains a key economic centre, particularly for the Botswana Meat Commission, and is home to the Botswana High Court. (I saw both).

The modern town was officially founded in 1896 by the British colonial administration.

It served as a strategic location for administration and as a construction camp for the railway line built from Mafikeng to Bulawayo.

Other institutions include the S'brana psychiatric hospital. (I saw this too).

PS: I took all these photos myself.